
Welcome to the Brownie Review, one of my crackpot ideas that I actually
got around to implementing. I'll aim to cover all the brownies in both
the University of Sydney & Newtown region, and other retailers. Each
brownie is judged on taste, value and whether it has a certain je ne sais
quoi, which might add bonus points. Hopefully, there will be accompanying
photos for all brownies.
Current brownie count: 12
1. Ice + Slice, Newtown

The
inaugural subject of the Brownie Review, this concoction from Newtown's
Ice + Slice Gelateria & Pizzeria was certainly a worthy contestant
to kick things off with. Although certainly more pricey than the average,
because of the included gelato, the taste more than compensated. $6.50
buys you a hefty brownie (what will almost certainly be the largest in
the roundup, based on my previous experience), which is heated before
they serve it - with a generous dollop of excellent gelato (your choice
of flavour), plus assorted accoutrements like cream and chocolate sauce.
As a judge on Iron Chef would say, the cold of the gelato creates a pleasing
contrast with the warmth of the heated portion. The brownie itself is
perhaps a little simple, without nuts or other additions, though it is
questionable how well these would go with heating and gelato, so this
is not really a great downside. On the whole, the king of brownies, at
a royal price. It remains to be seen whether the competitors can deliver
more brownie for my buck, but the review has certainly begun with a bang.
Taste:  |
Value:  |
JNSQ: + 1 |
Rating:  |
2. Sutherland Bakery

From
the rich and luxurious, now to the cheap and cheerful. I picked up this
brownie to kill time while waiting for a connecting train at Sutherland
station. Firstly, don't be put off by the nondescript appearance - that's
just moisture on top, not mould, so blame my ineptness at photography
rather than the bakers. For the low, low price of only $1.70, this represents
a good value offering - sufficiently moist and substantially sized, with
some nuts for good measure. (As an aside, it was quite fortunate that
I got this one early in the piece, as its similarity to a generic mudcake
has caused me to reassess the line defining exactly what a brownie is.)
Although it won't win any awards for gourmet taste or creative flair,
the fact that you can buy one with a single gold coin deserves to be rewarded.
Taste:  |
Value:  |
JNSQ: 0 |
Rating:  |
3. Michel's Patisserie, Gymea

Since
time immemorial, humankind has asked the question, "exactly what
is a brownie?" In its quest for enlightenment, it developed dictionary.com
("A bar of moist, usually chocolate cake, often with nuts.")
and Wikipedia ("a small, rich, chocolate cake, similar to a cookie,
named after its rich brown color. It is sometimes covered with fudge and
may contain nuts, chips (chocolate, butterscotch, peanut butter, etc.),
or cannabis"). The emphasis being on cake rather than slice, this
offering from the eponymous Michel is perhaps not technically valid, but
they had no explicitly-labelled brownies, so I bought what was closest.
And although Gymea bakeries are generally not so Bohemian as to include
hashish in their wares, this was pretty nice. Not amazing for the $2.90
price (which is fairly middle-of-the-road), but filling and sweet. There
are always more stores in the same chain who might be able to provide
something closer to the true definition of brownie, so the French needn't
surrender just yet.
Taste:  |
Value:  |
JNSQ: 0 |
Rating:  |
4. Betty Crocker Chocolate Fudge Walnut Brownies

Much
as the dinosaurs were outgunned in the evolutionary race by the nimble
and intelligent mammals, it appears that the juggernaught that is the
store-bought brownie may succumb to a whole new class of competitor, the
packet mix. Okay, so the dinosaurs were mostly killed by a comet impact
with the force of 100 trillion tonnes of TNT, but the improper comparison
should not get in the way of the goodness of home cooking. The JNSQ point
is for getting to eat (as Tristan suggested) the brownie mix while you're
making it, and the feeling of domestic competence that comes from making
something (even if the process is 'combine ingredients, mix, cook'). This
specific mix was very good, too, with walnuts (a little hard to notice
them though) and caramel (which they supplied way too much of, always
better to have an oversupply). The cooked brownies had the characteristic
'density gradient' that brownies should have: soft when you first bite,
but then getting harder as you bite down (in contrast to cakes, for example,
which are always soft). It cost $3.79 plus my invaluable labour time (and
eggs). At right, I eat about two-thirds of the tray at once.
Taste:  |
Value:  |
JNSQ: + 1 |
Rating:  |
5. Gloria Jean's Coffees, St Leonards

Catering
to the cashed-up bourgeoisie of today's society, Gloria Jean's is a familiar
sight in many a Sydney shopping district (though it doesn't appear to
have yet achieved the massive presence of Starbucks, which has taken to
opening stores across the street from other stores). They're not afraid
to charge, either - this morsel cost $3.50 - but in their defence, they
do make sure it's worth it. To quote Mr. Bean: "Well, it's quite
big, because if it was really small, you know, microscopic, then hardly
anyone would be able to see it, which would be a tremendous shame."
In this case, eat might be more appropriate than see, but the point remains.
Taste-wise, it's an exercise in balance: rich without giving you an instant
sugar headache, soft without disintegrating in your hands, and containing
nuts and chocolate bits, but not in such quantities to make you fee like
you're munching on gravel. Overall, I think it actually tastes rather
like my own brownies - perhaps a bit nicer, but you pay more for not having
to get your hands dirty. Oh, and try their chocolate hazelnut slice ('Charlotte
Slice', I think it's called) for a similar price - it's also very good.
Taste:  |
Value:  |
JNSQ: 0 |
Rating:  |
6. Cafe Chocolat, Bondi Junction
7. BB's Espresso, Wentworth Building, Sydney University
BB's
Espresso on level 3 of the Wentworth Building has apparently decided
to ring in the New Year with an across-the-board price rise. Although
this will force me to moderate my purchasing of their muffins, I sacrificed
my better monetary sensibilities on the altar of Reviewing, and forked
out $3.90. Was it worth it? Considering what you could get elsewhere
for that, probably not. Although it did suffer from the train ride home,
and originally looked better than the photo shows it to be, it still
wasn't that great. The obvious presence of nuts was a plus (too many
brownies seem to be 'castrated' these days, so to speak), and a separate
layer of chocolate icing on top was good, if a little unorthodox. But
the brownie also included some sort of weird fruity thing; it reminded
me of sultanas but I'm sure it couldn't be, no baker is that stupid.
Since I'm really not a fan of dried grapes and their relations, this
taste was insurmountably annoying. So although BB's is conveniently
located, I would advise you to steer clear of this particular offering.
Better yet, go buy something from a USU store and keep your student
organisations alive.
Taste:  |
Value:  |
JNSQ: 0 |
Rating:  |
8. Vickers Cakes, Hurstville
9. Red Mango Patisserie, North Sydney
10. Crispy Inn Bakery, Newtown
Crispy Inn at Newtown is apparently open 24 hours a day, so if you're
ever feeling like a midnight morsel it might be one of your only options.
Fortunately for you, it's not at all bad. To start with, this brownie
has more nuts than Batman's Arkham City Asylum. (*Ticks box for Obligatory
Unsubtle Pop-Culture Reference.*) The walnuts come in two layers: one
on the icing, which is not abnormal, and oddly an entire layer on the
bottom. While there are plenty, they're not overwhelming because the
brownie itself is decently-sized. The texture is probably a bit too
cake-like; or more accurately there is a lack of any firm sides as there
probably should be, especially from a shop with Crispy explicitly in
its name. On the whole, this is another well-made dessert/snack but
unfortunately strays a bit from the strict definition of a brownie.
The factor that might sway your decision to buy it is the excellent
price, which I was think was $2.50. Grab one if you already spent $14,000
on smoothies at Ice + Slice and don't have enough money to get their
brownie/gelato combo.
Taste:  |
Value:  |
JNSQ: 0 |
Rating:  |
11. Azzuri's, Wentworth Building, Sydney University
At the time I walked into Azzuri's out-of-the-way location in Wentworth,
The Brownie Review was at a crossroads. I was facing the realisation
that my continued harping-on about defining brownies (versus cakes)
was getting a bit monotonous, and I was even getting a bit unsure about
whether I was justified in claiming that all of these recent entries
were too soft to be real brownies, considering that they were all quite
similar. As I was wrestling with this dilemma, weighing up whether supporting
the cause of pure brownie traditions was worth boring the reader and
possibly saying something that made no sense anyway, Azzuri's came to
the rescue like that ruggedly handsome Errol Flynn in a Thirties swashbuckling
movie.
With a perfect dense consistency, a liberal but not excessive dosage
of nuts mixed through, and managing to do without a random thick layer
of chocolate icing on top, this is everything a brownie should be. This
is not to say that it's everything a brownie could be: there's
not a great deal of originality here, but sometimes just getting the
basics right can be equally valuable. Also appealing is the price, which
at $3.00 is quite competitive. So I'll be eating plenty of these, which
hopefully might shut me up for long enough that I can't launch into
another rant about cakes.
Taste:  |
Value:  |
JNSQ: 0 |
Rating:  |
12. Starbucks Coffee, Martin Place
I write this review from the shade of a Moreton Bay Fig tree in Hyde
Park, watching the setting sun light up the spires of St Mary's Cathedral.
Yes, friends, this review is the start of a new era in the Brownie Review:
the mobile write-up. No more will candidates have to survive a train
trip home before reviewing; the combination of a digital camera and
my laptop will now ensure that I can photograph, eat and comment on
anything I buy within minutes of purchase. And what better way to start
this new go-everywhere mentality than with a company that is
everywhere: Starbucks. This brownie cost $3.50, which for the size is
fairly standard. As taste goes, it was definitely above-average, with
a firm consistency, a nice amount of walnuts and an excellent flavour
which wasn't too sweet. A detracting feature, however, was the layer
of cocoa dusted on top, which might be good in theory but was too thick
and consequently left me tasting bitter cocoa with most bites and a
nice brown coating over my hand when I'd finished. I think icing sugar
still works better on top but it probably depends on how the rest of
the brownie tastes too. In any case, this was pretty tasty and a reasonable
feed for the price but could have been thought through a little better.
Taste:  |
Value:  |
JNSQ: 0 |
Rating:  |